Pasta ai Quatto Formaggi, or Four Cheese Sauce for Pasta:
4 kinds of cheese
A pinch of nutmeg
A little white pepper
Once the pasta water comes to a boil add the pasta (1 pound of 400 g for four people), then take about a cup of milk and set it to heat over a moderate flame, adding about a quarter pound each of Gorgonzola dolce and Fontina. Stir constantly because the cheeses will settle, melt over the bottom of the pan, and burn if you don’t. Add a pinch or more of white pepper to taste, and a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg if you like it. When the pasta is just shy of being done, drain it. Transfer it to a skillet, stir in the sauce, and 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano, and cook over a brisk flame, moving the skillet as you would if you were making an omelet to toss the pasta. Once most of the liquid is absorbed and the pasta is cooked, serve.